How do you choose your surfboard?
Surfboards come in a variety of designs and have different characteristics.
Some are for experts and some are for beginners.
Getting a surfboard that suits your level is very important.
For example, if a beginner uses an advanced surfboard, his progress will be slower.
Even if you make a mistake, you shouldn’t buy it because the logo is cool, the color is beautiful, and it’s on sale.
I am an average surfer.
I’m not some experts, so I think I can tell many surfers how to choose a useful surfboard.
Wavalien
There are many types of surfboards. It depends on the design and size.
Choosing the right surfboard for you is very important.
Wavalien
Oliver
I want a surfboard that is easy to paddle, easy to take off, easy to accelerate, good in rotation, and can be used in both big and small waves.
I understand your feelings. However, there are not many ones that have all of them.
It is recommended to have multiple surfboards and choose the one that suits the wave conditions of the day.
Wavalien
Oliver
Buying multiple surfboards costs a lot of money.
I understand your feelings.
If you don’t want to spend a lot of money, you can use a used surfboard.
Wavalien
Oliver
How many surfboards should I have?
It’s up to you to decide. From now on, I will explain how to choose a surfboard.
Then you will know how many surfboards you should have.
Wavalien
The volume of the above two surfboards is similar.
However, the characteristics are different.
The one on the left is 6’2 in length and is suitable for large waves.
The one on the right is 5’4 in length and is for small waves.
What you can see in this article
・Surfboard structure and characteristics
・How to choose a surfboard （In the case of Wavalien)
目次
- 1. Surfboard structure and characteristics
- 2. How to choose a surfboard （In the case of Wavalien)
- 2.1. Pyzel surfboards : Gremlin
- 2.2. Pyzel surfboards : The Ghost
- 2.3. Lost : The driver for Colohe Andino
- 2.4. Webber surfboards : Fat Burner Plus
- 2.5. Simon Anderson : XFC CDC
- 2.6. Firewire-TOMO : Vanguard
- 2.7. Channel Islands : Model name unknown for Taylor Knox (Al Merrick hand-shaped)
- 2.8. Channel islands : Bonzer 5 Shelter
- 2.9. Simon Anderson : DSC
- 2.10. TOKORO : Model name unknown for Damien Hobgood
Surfboard structure and characteristics
Surfboard Length
| Long | Short | |
| Paddle | Fast | Slow |
| Take off | Easy | Difficult |
| Acceleration | Fast | Slow |
| Turn | Large radius | Small radius |
| For beginners? | Good | Not good |
Surfboard Width
| Narrow | Wide | |
| Paddle | Unstable | Stable |
| Take off | For steep, hollow break | For spilling break |
| Straightness | Good | Not good |
| Control | Easy to tilt the surfboard | Slightly difficult to tilt the surfboard |
| For beginners? | Not good | Good |
Surfboard Thickness
| Thin | Thick | |
| Paddle | Slow | Fast |
| Take off | Difficult | Easy |
| Acceleration | Slow | Fast |
| Control | Easy | Slightly difficult |
| For beginners? | Not good | Good |
Surfboard Volume
| Low | High | |
| Paddle | Slow | Fast |
| Take off | Difficult | Easy |
| Duck dive | Easy | Difficult |
| Acceleration | Slow | Fast |
| Turn | Easy | Slightly difficult |
| For beginners? | Not good | Good |
Surfboard Rocker
| Strong | Weak | |
| Paddle | Slow | Fast |
| Take off | Difficult | Easy |
| Acceleration | Slow | Fast |
| Control | Easy for advanced surfers | Easy for beginner surfers |
| For beginners? | Not good | Good |
How to choose a surfboard （In the case of Wavalien)
The design of the surfboard, even if it looks similar, makes a difference when you ride it.
For example, even if the width is different by 1/4 inch and the thickness is different by 1/8 inch, it will have a big influence on the ride quality.
Wavalien
Oliver
Does that make a difference?
That’s right.
Every surfboard has its own characteristics.
Riding many types of surfboards is one of the pleasures of surfing.
I have experience riding various surfboards.
Wavalien
Oliver
Mr, Wavaline has a lot of surfboards.
I’ve been riding about 20 surfboards so far. I’ve tried to buy a surfboard that suits me as much as I can, but sometimes it fails and sometimes it succeeds.
The experience of riding a lot of surfboards will help me find the size of the surfboard that suits me.
Wavalien
Oliver
I realized that it was important to have the experience of riding various surfboards.
With experience, you will know the size that suits you. However, the characteristics of surfboards can only be understood by riding. Also, different surfers have different feelings. Ride a lot of surfboards and find the one that suits you.
Wavalien
Wavalien
I will review some of my surfboards. By all means, please refer to your surfboard to choose.
Below is my information.
About Wevalien
Height : 5’7feet (174 cm)
Weight : 143 lbs (65 kg)
Age : about 50 years old
Level : Intermediate
Paddle power : normal
The volume of a surfboard that I think suits me : About 27‐28Ｌ
Pyzel surfboards : Gremlin
| Brand, shaper | Pyzel surfboards, Jon Pyzel |
| Model | Gremlin |
| image | |
| Size | 5’4″ 19 3/4″ 2 3/8″ 27.9L |
| Condition to use | Small waves, medium waves, Spilling breakers When I want to relax and surf comfortably. When I want to take action even on weak waves. |
| My personal evaluation This surfboard is short, wide and thick. The rail is also thick. This is my favorite volume. I think lockers are weak. Therefore, the paddle is very fast. I can accelerate with just a little paddling. Takeoff is easy. The wide tail area catches the force of the waves. The design makes it easy to accelerate after taking off. I think it’s easy for beginner surfers to accelerate even if they can’t do difficult techniques. Even small waves with weak power can be accelerated. Because it is short, surfers can make turns with a small radius. On the contrary, it is not suitable for strong and big waves. The wide and thick rails make it difficult to control. I use this surfboard when I want to surf easily. I think it’s a surfboard that is easy to use even for beginners. |
Pyzel surfboards : The Ghost
| Brand, shaper | Pyzel surfboards, Jon Pyzel |
| Model | The Ghost |
| image | |
| Size | 6’2″ 19 1/8″ 2 3/8″ 28.4L |
| Condition to use | Medium waves, big waves, steep waves, hollow waves, strong current When I want to reduce the fear of takeoff on a big wave day. |
| My personal evaluation I made a custom order from Pyzel surfboards in Hawaii. The deck is 4oz x 6oz, which makes it a little stronger.(Usually 4oz x 4oz) It is a little heavy because of the paint because it is also colored. However, the weight does not matter because it is supposed to be used in large waves. This surfboard can be set to 5 fins, but I’m not good at quads. Therefore, the fin box on the side rear is omitted. Volume is 28.4 liters. It has a lot of volume to use big waves. The ghost is very easy to paddle. I can easily speed up. Therefore, I use it on days when the current is strong. Also, the fast paddle speed makes takeoff easier. The take-off performance on steep and large waves is excellent. The ghost reduces the fear of takeoff. The Ghost has a round pintail. Therefore, this surfboard can reduce the force it receives from strong waves. Therefore, it is ideal for big wave days and steep wave days. Round pintails fit steep wave slopes. The ghost has a thick central rail. It has a rocker that is easy to accelerate. Therefore, the ghost is very easy to accelerate. I can escape from the big wave breaks that are coming. It’s easy to accelerate, so it’s easy to apply tricks. The rail on the tail is thin. Therefore, the control is also smooth. |
Lost : The driver for Colohe Andino
| Brand, shaper | Lost surfboards, Matt “Mayhem” Biolos |
| Model | The Driver for Colohe Andino |
| Image | |
| Size | 6’0″ 18.66″ 2.27″ 26.67L |
| Condition to use | Medium waves, big waves, steep waves, hollow waves, A little strong current When I want agile action. When the shape of the waves is good. |
| My personal evaluation This surfboard is shaped for Corohe Andino. I bought this surfboard second hand at internet. It is a sign of Mayhem. I believe it is Mayhem’s hand shape. (Shadow shaper can’t shape Kolohe Andino’s surfboard!) The size is described in detail. It’s probably Kolohe Andino’s favorite size. Volume is 26.67 liters. I don’t have the paddle power or skill of Kolohe Andino. But my weight is lighter than Kolohe Andino. Therefore, it is the perfect volume for me. For me, it’s a volume that allows for agile action. It’s a very light surfboard. I think it’s easier to move, ignoring the strength. The driver has a slightly flat center part of the rocker. This makes paddles easy. In addition, it does not stall even in areas where the force of the waves is weak. 26.67 liters is a volume that makes paddles easy and duck dive easy for me. Therefore, I use The Driver even when the wave power is strong. Use even when the current is a little strong. However, when the current becomes very strong, the ghost of pyzel is more volume and easier to paddle than the driver, so I use the ghost. The driver has a round tail. Therefore, it is possible to draw a smooth line. The rail on the tail is very thin. Therefore, it reacts sensitively with a small load. The rail in the center of the surfboard is medium. When I make a turn, it just cuts into the slopes of the waves. Therefore, fine control is easy. |
Webber surfboards : Fat Burner Plus
| Brand, shaper | Webber Surfboards, Greg Webber |
| Model | Fat burner Plus |
| Image | |
| Size | 6’0″ 19 3/4″ 2 1/2″ 30L |
| Condition to use | Small waves, Medium waves, Spilling breakers When I want to take action even on weak waves. |
| My personal evaluation A surfboard designed by Greg Webber, the inventor of Concave. This surfboard has a very beautiful shape. Volume is 30 liters. For me, it’s a little overflowing. The material is EPS. Lighter than polyester. Therefore, it is suitable for surfboards of such a large size. The material of this surfboard is a little hard to step on and has a strong repulsion. So I have a lot of control with small waves. EPS is easily discolored by the influence of ultraviolet rays. Therefore, it turned brown. The weak point of EPS is that it is easily discolored by ultraviolet rays. It was white when it was new, but now it is brown. The paddle is not late. However, the paddle is not so easy for the volume of 30 liters. I feel that the lockers are strong. 30 liters is overflowing for me. Therefore, duck dive becomes difficult. I often use fat burner plus on small, weak waves. I don’t use fat burner plus on days when there are a lot of waves and a lot of duck dives are needed. I think this surfboard design can also be used in big waves. However, I don’t use it because it is difficult to duck dive. The tail is wide. Takeoff is easy as the wide tail receives the force of the waves. The shape of the tail is swallow. Swallow tails have a smaller area than squash tails. So it’s a wide surfboard, but I can easily turn because it can sink the tail with less load. In addition, the two tips of the swallow easily enter the waves, making a light turn. I feel that the fat burner plus locker is strong. Therefore, loading the tail makes it easier to turn the surfboard. Therefore, you can make smooth and nimble turns that you cannot imagine from its size. Fat burner plus has a deep double concave. Adjust the water flow on the bottom surface. Therefore, I think it is very easy to accelerate. Even though the rocker is strong, it is a very good design that acceleration is easy. |
Simon Anderson : XFC CDC
| Brand, shaper | Simon Anderson surfboards , Simon Anderson |
| Model | XFC CDC |
| Image | preparing |
| Size | 6’1″ 18 5/16″ 2 1/4″ volume: unknown |
| Condition to use | Medium waves, Big waves, Steep waves, Hollow waves, When I have to do a lot of duck dives. When the current is not so strong When I want to take precise action. |
| My personal evaluation The volume of this surfboard is not listed and is unknown. I imagine it’s probably around 25.5 liters. I used to use Simon Anderson XFC a lot when I was young. I feel that the speed of the paddle is normal. Duck dive is easy due to its low volume. Therefore, it can be used on big wave days when many duck dives are required. However, since the paddle is easy to get tired due to its low volume, it is not used on days when the current is strong. Simon Anderson XFC has a narrow surfboard, so I can easily tilt the surfboard. Therefore, the control is very easy. Since the volume is small, it will be difficult to accelerate if the wave force is weak. Therefore, it is suitable for powerful waves and loose waves. Because of the low volume, I need to be in the power zone of the waves constantly. Otherwise, it will stall and the surfboard will not be able to support my weight and will fall into the water. The feeling of acceleration and control of this board is wonderful. The volume is a bit lacking at my age, but if the volume of this board is 27-28 liters, I will use this board a lot. |
Firewire-TOMO : Vanguard
| Brand, shaper | Firewire-TOMO , Daniel Thomson |
| Model | Vanguard |
| Image | |
| Size | 5’4″ 18 “ 2 1/4″ 25.9L Parabolic Balsa Rail |
| Condition to use | Medium waves, Steep waves, Hollow waves When I want a feeling different from the usual surfboard. |
| My personal evaluation Vanguard has a very strange design. The nose is boldly cut. The width of the nose is very wide. I bought this surfboard because I was very attracted to this shape. The material is EPS.EPS is easily discolored by the influence of ultraviolet rays. Therefore, it turned brown. The waxed area does not get sunburned, so it does not discolor and remains white. A short, narrow surfboard. The width is only 18inch. However, due to the thick rail and wide nose, it has a volume of 25.9 liters. This volume is a little lacking for me. There is volume in the nose part. Therefore, it can be loaded before. I think the speed of the paddle is normal. I think it’s easy to take off. I think Vanguard lockers are weak. Vanguard does not have a stringer center like a normal surfboard. Instead, have balsa on both sides of the rail. I could not feel the effect of this PARABOLIC Balsa Rail on acceleration and turns. Vanguard may be because it’s short, narrow, and the entire surfboard is thick, making it difficult to feel the bend. I feel that acceleration is a little slow. I imagined that the front half rail of the surfboard would also touch the surface of the waves, but it doesn’t actually touch the water. Therefore, I felt that I could not make full use of the characteristics of this surfboard. Vanguard can make small radius turns. The width is very narrow. And the tip called a double diamond makes the turn easy. I feel that it is a surfboard that is easy to turn and difficult to accelerate. That’s why I use Vanguard on steep wave days where it’s easy to accelerate. Not used when the wave power is weak. |
The model in the video below is a “Death star”, not a “Vanguard”.
It’s the same as being a cut-off nose surfboard.
Channel Islands : Model name unknown for Taylor Knox (Al Merrick hand-shaped)
| Brand, shaper | Channel Islands Surfboards, Al Merrick |
| Model | Unknown for Taylor Knox (Al Merrick hand shaped) |
| Image | |
| Size | 6’3″ 18 1/2 “ 2 3/8″ volume: unknown 4 channel bottom |
| Condition to use | Medium waves, Steep waves, Hollow waves After watching the Taylor Knox video, I want to ride this surfboard. (But I can’t use it well.) |
| My personal evaluation This surfboard is allegedly used by Taylor Knox. The model name of this surfboard is unknown. I bought this at Yahoo’s internet auction. It is a sign part. In the fish mark, it says love. This is said to be Mr. Almeric’s own hand shape. It is a very valuable surfboard. Volume is unknown. I think it’s about 29 liters. The locker is very strong. I feel that both the nose side and the tail side are strong. So paddles are not easy. The rail part is very thick. Especially, the center part is a boxy rail. The rail on the tail is thin and easy to control. The bottom turn of Taylor Knox is very cool. I think that the bottom turn is realized by deeply sinking a very thick rail. This rail is beyond my control. I feel that I lack weight and power. It is on-fin. Unlike FCS etc., I strongly feel the bending of the fins. On fins are not suitable for carrying around. But I still think onfin gives the best feeling. The rocker is strong and control is not easy. But sometimes I can operate it well, and at that time I can make a very sharp and wonderful turn. It’s a very difficult board. I use this surfboard when the waves are strong. Since the paddle is slow, I don’t use it on days when the current is strong. |
Channel islands : Bonzer 5 Shelter
| Brand, shaper | Channel Islands Surfboards, Campbell Brothers |
| Model | Bonzer 5 Shelter |
| Image | |
| Size | 5’9″ 18 1/4 “ 2 1/4” 25.5L |
| Condition to use | Medium waves, Steep waves, Hollow waves, grassy waves, Current is weak When I want a smooth feel similar to a single fin. |
| My personal evaluation The bonzer 5 shelter is a very unusual concept. The center fin is a single fin. The side fins are four small fins. There is a deep double concave. I was very attracted to this special shape. I have removed the side fins on the thruster surfboard and surfed only on the center fins. Without the side fins, there is no resistance to water and it feels very smooth. However, the center fin alone cannot stay on the hillside of the wave and is difficult to control. I was looking for a surfboard that was easy to control and enjoyed a single fin while eliminating the resistance of the side fins. The volume of this surfboard is 25.5 liters. For me, it’s a surfboard that lacks volume. However, I chose this size because I wanted to enjoy the feeling of a single fin with less volume. I feel that the rocker of bonzer 5 shelter is strong. The paddle feels slow. Everyone don’t know the features until they try surfboards. I regretted that the surfboard of this rocker should have a volume of about 28 liters. I find it difficult to take off unless the waves are steep. The feeling of riding is very comfortable. I don’t feel the resistance of the four small side fins. I can be on the hillside and it’s easier to turn than a single fin. It is difficult to set a single fin. Setting it in front of the fin box makes it easier to make small turns, but makes it harder to go straight. Setting it at the back of the fin box makes it easier to go straight, but makes it harder to turn. I don’t think it is suitable for waves in poor conditions such as onshore. I get a very pleasant feeling when I use it when the wave surface is glassy. If this surfboard had 28 liters of volume, I would have used it in various conditions. However, the paddle is also difficult to take off, even though it lacks volume. That’s why I use the bonzer 5 shelter when there is no current, the waves are steep and the waves are glassy. |
Simon Anderson : DSC
| Brand, shaper | Simon Anderson surfboards , Simon Anderson |
| Model | DSC |
| Image | preparing |
| Size | 6’4″ 18 1/4″ 2 1/4″ volume: unknown |
| Condition to use | Big waves, Steep waves, Hollow waves, Current is weak When I have to do a lot of duck dives. |
| My personal evaluation The volume of Simon Anderson dsc is unknown. I expect it to be around 26 liters. Simon Anderson dsc is a semi-gun. Designed for riding big waves. The width is narrower than the length. The tail is a round pin. It is designed not to receive the strong force of big waves. It doesn’t work with small waves. That’s why I use Simon Anderson DSC on big wave days. Simon Anderson DSC is a little lacking in volume for me. Therefore, duck dive is easy. Use on days with a lot of waves. The paddle has a high straightness and a fast design. But it’s not enough volume for my age. Therefore, I do not use it on days when the current is strong. When I use it, the take-off performance is normal. However, if the volume is about 28-29 liters, I think the takeoff will be very easy. -It is easy to accelerate after taking off, and it is stable even in strong |
TOKORO : Model name unknown for Damien Hobgood
| Brand, shaper | TOKORO , Wade Tokoro |
| Model | Unknown for Damien Hobgood |
| Image | preparing |
| Size | 5’11″ 18 5/16″ 2 1/4″ volume: unknown |
| Condition to use | Medium waves, Steep waves, Hollow waves, Current is weak |
| My personal evaluation This is a surfboard shaped for Damian Hobgood. I bought this surfboard at Yahoo’s internet auction. II believe this surfboard was hand-shaped by Wade Tokoro. (Shadow shapers can’t shape Damian’s surfboards!) The volume of this surfboard is unknown. I like the volume of this surfboard is around 25 liters. It’s a surfboard that I don’t use much because it has too little volume. Duck dive is easy due to lack of volume. However, the paddle becomes difficult. Due to lack of volume, it is not possible to speed up, so it is dangerous if the current is strong. I’ve been almost swept away by this surfboard on a strong current day. I’m scared. Takeoff feels relatively easy. Due to the lack of volume, the surfboard is easy to control. But if I can’t keep accelerating, I’ll quickly stall and I’ll fall into the ocean. It is important to take advantage of the ease of control and move quickly to the power zone of the waves. Therefore, it is used for powerful and steep waves. The size is up to the middle size. The current is scary when it is a big wave. If this surfboard had a volume of 27-28 liters, I would have enjoyed it even more in the big waves. |
I told you how I chose the surfboard by wave condition.
Wavalien
Oliver
You choose a surfboard in consideration of big waves, small waves, current strength, etc.
That’s right.
If you have a lot of surfboards, you can handle all wave conditions. Please use various surfboards. I’m sure there will be new discoveries.
Wavalien
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