How to avoid injuries caused by surfboards when wiping out

Surfboard fins and nose are very dangerous parts. A long time ago, when I wiping out, a surfboard fell on me. Fin hit the side of my head. I sewed two stitches on the back of my head.

This time, I will talk about how to avoid injury when wiping out.

If you fail to take off and get swallowed by the waves, grab the surfboard with both hands. If you grab the surfboard, you won’t get hurt by the nose or fins.
This method is possible with small waves and middle sized waves. You may not be able to grab the surfboard with waves that are too big. Also, if you have a large surfboard, you may not be able to grasp it by hand. Determine if you want to grab it based on the size of the waves and the volume of the surfboard.
Also, this method does not allow other surfers inside to hit the surfboard. This is an effective method, especially at crowded points.

If you are swallowed by the waves with your surfboard when wiping out, you may be injured by the fins or nose. It is safe to keep the surfboard away from your body as much as possible.
You can kick the surfboard away from your body.
However·····

If you kick the surfboard, you may hit the surfboard against other surfers and get injured.
So don’t use this method when you have other surfers inside.

In my case, I ride to avoid places where there are many other surfers inside. Especially dangerous is when you have other surfers inside, but you are off the rip, floater or air. If you make a mistake, you are likely to injure others.

It’s a manner to enjoy surfing. Other surfers inside should paddle to avoid getting in the way of the surfer while riding. However, the speed of the riding surfer is overwhelmingly faster. Inside surfers are not always avoided with paddles.

In any case, there is also the idea that inside surfers are bad. But I disagree with this idea. I think you should give up off-the-rip rather than injuring others. That one off-the-rip doesn’t seem to be important enough to injure someone else and succeed.
If the surfers inside are in the way, I think you should be careful later.
There may be pros and cons to this idea, but …

If you’re wiping out and there are other surfers inside, if possible, don’t kick the surfboard and grab it with both hands. Do this not only to protect yourself, but to prevent others from being injured.

Protect your head for wipeouts that get caught in the waves with your surfboard. Avoid the fins and nose hitting your face, eyes and ears. Hold your head with both hands and guard.

You can also wear a surfing helmet. I love Gath helmets.
Having a helmet reduces the risk of head injuries. You can challenge dangerous waves and dangerous leaf points.
GATH’s helmet is also used by Owen Wright, a WSL surfer who won the bronze medal at the Tokyo Olympics 2020.