Help me.
What’s up?
I’m not good at dumping waves. Even if I could take off, the waves would break and I wouldn’t be able to run.
Dumping waves are difficult. Just taking off is not enough. What are you aware of?
Anyway, I want to make the takeoff successful.
Are you thinking after taking off?
No, I’m not thinking.
The damping wave breaks in an instant. Don’t be slow. You need to think about valuing the momentary time. In other words, you need to succeed in the takeoff as soon as possible and start running immediately after the takeoff.
Is momentary time important? I don’t think so.
This time, I will talk about how to get on the damping wave well. You will understand why momentary time is important.
Time reduction is important for damper waves
・ Decide in advance whether to go to the right or the left
・ Paddle diagonally and take off.
・ At the time of takeoff, change the position to put your hand on the surfboard.
・Use the rails well to accelerate.
Decide in advance whether to go to the right or the left
Do you decide left or right first? With a damping wave, it is difficult to know the direction of the break.
During the damping wave, you don’t have time to decide the direction while paddling. Look closely at the waves and first decide whether to go to the right or the left.
Paddle diagonally and take off
Do not paddle straight as shown in the figure below.
I always paddle straight. Why not?
Paddle straight and take off and you’ll be caught in a wave break. And it is swallowed by the waves.
Then what should I do?
Paddle diagonally and take off
Paddle diagonally in a predetermined direction. Make the takeoff diagonal as well.
What is the effect of diagonal takeoff?
The damping wave breaks in an instant. Surfers can’t run where the broken soup is. So, at the same time as the takeoff, you have to immediately sink the rail and accelerate.
Please take a closer look at the illustration. To the right, the rail on the right side of the surfboard is sinking. If left, the rail on the left side of the surfboard is sinking.
By the time you take off, you’ve already sunk the rail, so you can accelerate as soon as it pops up.
This allows you to run through the face before the waves break.
I think this method makes it harder to get caught in the waves. Do you have any tips for diagonal takeoff?
Look in the direction of travel when paddling. The surfboard goes in the direction you are looking.
At the time of takeoff, change the position to put your hand on the surfboard
I will talk about another way to save time. The surfer pops up and then rides sideways on the surfboard. It’s a waste of time to turn your body sideways after popping up. This can be improved by changing the position where you place your hand on the surfboard.
The following articles explain in detail. If you want to improve your dumping wave surfing, this is an article to read.
Use the rails well to accelerate
You need to accelerate as soon as you take off. It is a speed race with the break of the damping wave. You have to accelerate more than the damping wave break.
To accelerate, it’s best to use only the rails, not the bottom of the surfboard.
Read the following articles on how to use rails. You will be able to make great accelerations.
Reduce paddle and takeoff time when surfing on the damping wave.
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